Nour: Spice is Nice

Packed with fresh and zesty flavours, Middle Eastern food is prized for its heady sweet-savoury combos and artful simplicity. But it’s much more than tabbouleh, falafel and baklava. From labneh to baba ganoush, kibbeh to za’atar, there’s a world of amazing new culinary techniques and old traditions to uncover.

“Underneath it all, Middle Eastern food is also about community, sharing and feasting together,” says head sommelier Eleonore Wulf from Nour in Sydney.

“That’s what I love about it the most: there’s no pretence, it’s about sharing a meal with the friends and family you love.”

When it comes to matching wines with these meals, Wulf believes in pairing like with like.

“Match the weight and flavour intensity of the wine to that of the dish,” she says.

“For example, delicate seafood would ideally pair with a light, crisp white, and rich, braised beef cheeks would pair with a bold, tannic red. As for more typical Middle Eastern dishes such as hummus, I would recommend a rosé with a touch of roundness – think Australian over French styles, to match the creaminess of the dish and refresh the palate.”

For anyone who doesn’t know a lot about wine, Wulf’s parting words of wisdom are refreshingly simple.

“Don’t be afraid to ask the sommelier for assistance – we’re there to help you!”

Head to bustling Crown Street in Sydney’s Surry Hills for a Middle Eastern-style feast at Nour, where walls the colour of exotic spices and flames visible from the open kitchen provide the perfect setting for a sensory treat. Nour is all about reassuringly familiar Middle Eastern dishes – think hummus and smoky eggplant – dressed up to the nines. The Falafel dumplings with pickled broad beans and sumac onions is a must-try. Share the Hummus and Wagyu beef tongue and then move on to the Carob glazed lamb shoulder with mujadara and crispy onion. Be sure to leave room for the alluring Chocolate parfait with burnt tahini, Iranian fig and whey caramel. The flavour carousel doesn’t end with dessert though. Nour’s cocktail menu and wine list also pay tribute to the diverse flavours, fruits, herbs and spices of the region.

Enjoy the intoxicating aromas and flavours of Middle Eastern cuisine at your own table with these exquisite recipes by Eleonore Wulf

CHICKEN AND POMEGRANATE KORESH

SERVES 4

1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
1.8kg chicken marylands, excess fat trimmed
2 brown onions, halved, thinly sliced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
Pinch of saffron
2 x 473ml bottles pomegranate juice
Pistachio kernels, chopped, to serve
Pomegranate seeds, to serve
Fresh continental parsley leaves, to serve
Steamed saffron rice, to serve

Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over medium-high heat. Season the chicken and cook in two batches for 3-4 minutes each side or until golden. Transfer to a plate. Remove all but 1 tbs of the fat from the pan. Reduce heat to low. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until golden. Add the cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric and saffron. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until aromatic. Add the chicken and pomegranate juice. Cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for 50 minutes or until the chicken is tender. Transfer chicken to a platter and cover with foil. Increase heat to high and simmer the cooking liquid for 8 minutes or until reduced and slightly sticky. Drizzle over the chicken and sprinkle with pistachio, pomegranate seeds and parsley. Serve with saffron rice.

Match with Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier

MIDDLE EASTERN EGGPLANT SALAD

SERVES 6

2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 x 400g packet pearl couscous
2 tsp Middle Eastern spice blend
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 baby eggplants, quartered lengthways
1 red capsicum, chopped
1 Lebanese cucumber, halved lengthways, sliced
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves
1/3 cup fresh coriander leaves
1 pomegranate
12 radishes, quartered
Pickled red onion, to serve

Bring stock to the boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add couscous. Reduce heat to low. Simmer, partially covered and stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until couscous is tender. Set aside for 5 minutes to cool. Meanwhile, combine spice blend and half the oil in a small bowl. Place eggplant on a baking tray. Brush oil mixture over eggplant. Heat 1 tbs of remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Cook eggplant, turning, for 3-4 minutes or until golden and tender. Transfer to a paper towel to drain. Place capsicum, cucumber, half the mint and half the coriander in a serving bowl. Add couscous. Toss to combine. Remove seeds from pomegranate over a bowl to catch the juice (you’ll need 2 tbs of juice). Add pomegranate seeds and remaining oil to pomegranate juice. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk to combine. Top couscous mixture with eggplant, radishes, and remaining mint and coriander. Spoon over dressing and serve with pickled onions.

Match with Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine Grenache

Also try these Middle Eastern restaurants in other cities.

• Brisbane – Ahmet’s Turkish Restaurant, ahmets.com

• Adelaide – The Ottoman Grill, theottomangrill.com.au

• Melbourne – Maha Restaurant, maharestaurant.com.au